Door Maintenance And Repair
By Chip Cordes
Few businesses have as many doors to maintain as a self-storage site. With over 50,000 facilities in the U.S., imagine how many roll-up storage doors are out there! Perhaps tens of millions. The job of regular maintenance of these millions of doors generally falls on the shoulders of self-storage managers and maintenance personnel … so let’s roll up our sleeves and learn how to maintain them properly.
Self-storage facilities use different types of doors that all require some type of preventative maintenance to ensure a long life of trouble-free operation. These doors include hollow metal personnel doors at building entry points, swing doors on smaller interior units, sectional doors found at first-generation facilities and on today’s larger commercial and boat/RV units, and the industry’s most popular door—the sheet roll-up door found on millions of self-storage units around the globe.
Whichever type of door you are maintaining, understanding how the door operates and taking proper steps to maintain it will make your job easier since it can virtually eliminate customer complaints about door operation. Moreover, regular maintenance will protect your owner’s significant investment in this equipment.
Hollow Metal Doors Hollow metal doors typically have three hinges bolted or welded to a metal frame. Hardware includes a locking device, handles for open and closing, and many times, an automatic closure mechanism that helps close the door after someone operates it. To keep the door square in the opening, Make sure the fasteners are tightened on all operational parts, including the hinges and lock mechanism.
Also, installing a spring-loaded chain at the top of the door prevents unnecessary maintenance caused by overextension when opening. Remember that the hinges are designed to open the door only so far. Exceeding this maximum position typically will bend the hinges, twist the frame, and cause the door to rub with each operation. A maintenance checklist for hollow metal doors includes securing fasteners; inspecting hinges for signs of wear or extension and replacing them as needed; lubricating hinges and locking mechanisms; inspecting the rubber seal on the bottom of the door; and inspecting for de-lamination or rust due to exposure to the elements.
Most hollow metal doors are not manufactured from galvanized steel, so they require more attention to exposure to water, snow, and salt. Remember, although unit doors are only used each time a customer visits the facility, every renter in a hallway uses the hollow metal door at the point of entry. These doors tend to get the majority of traffic in a facility and they require the closest attention to prescribed maintenance.
Corrugated Swing Doors
Corrugated swing doors on interior units typically are manufactured from the same pre-painted corrugated sheets as roll-up doors, and are assembled with galvanized channel frames that hold the corrugated sheets into a swing door slab. They are intended for interior use only as they do not offer a weatherproof jamb or bottom weather seal.
Most swing doors have factory installed hinges welded or bolted to the door slab and bolted, screwed, or riveted to the hallway pier or component. The hinges are designed to operate a full 180 degrees, allowing the doors to fully open. Close inspection of the hinges is important to ensure that the fasteners are tight. A few drops of a silicone-based spray or liquid helps the hinges remain corrosion resistant and operate freely. In addition, these doors typically have a cylinder-type locking mechanism or a standard mini-lock latch suitable for padlocks. It is important that the lock is tightly fastened to the door slab. Some manufacturers provide a full-width security plate on the interior side of the door slab, ensuring that the lock cannot be removed by simply pulling the latch bolts through the corrugated skin. If your door does not a security plate, install over-sized washers to minimize this risk. Check the door to make sure it is square, making minor adjustments to fit it properly to the opening. Test the locking mechanism for a smooth operation with the door both open and closed.
Roll-Up Doors
Roll-up doors have become the industry standard for both exterior and interior unit access. They are manufactured from multiple light-gauge, galvanized, pre-painted corrugated sheets seamed together and coiled around a spring-loaded barrel assembly to raise and lower the door. Steel channel-like guides attached to the wall on both sides of the opening provide both vertical alignment and containment. The concept is the same with all manufacturers of roll-up doors—only aesthetic appearance and operational designs separate the several models available in the market today.
Although all of the roll-up models operate with the corrugated sheet rolling around a drum or barrel (much like a window shade rolls around a tube at the top of a window), various manufacturers have developed different techniques to achieve the same result. The barrel is constructed of galvanized steel drums welded to a common shaft that spans the width of the opening and is attached to the wall by two galvanized mounting plates. The center of the barrel consists of a hollow shaft around which all the components are attached. A spring is attached to the shaft that counterbalances the weight of the door’s curtain.
The spring will turn the shaft, which is also attached to the curtain. As the door opens, it rolls around the shaft and stays tucked neatly inside the storage unit above the door opening. Many of these doors have been in operation for more than 20 years and are still functioning. Nevertheless, customers throw them up, slam them down, run into them, stack boxes so they fall against the doors, and generally operate them with careless disregard. This is why periodic maintenance is required to keep roll-up doors working like new.
Roll-Up Maintenance
There are two basic types of operating mechanisms for today’s roll-up doors. In the first example, the shaft of the door is “live” and spins inside a bearing or bushing while the curtain wraps itself around a barrel assembly attached permanently to the shaft. In the second type, the shaft of the door is “dead” or fixed permanently to its MARCH/APRIL 2008 SELF-STORAGE NOW! 25 supporting wall bracket and the barrel assembly rotates around the fixed shaft. Either way, the end result is that the door curtain opens and closes.
The “fixed” shaft types contain bearings or bushings that turn while supporting the weight of the door curtain. They require periodic lubrication even if they are not used for long periods. In fact, not using a door is sometimes more detrimental than consistent use, as the components sit with all the weight and spring tension applied in a fixed position. Use silicone- based lubricants as they do not attract or retain dust and dirt particles; heavier lubricants can actually build up with each application.
The “live” shaft door has a tubular pipe protruding through both wall support brackets that turns with each revolution of the barrel assembly. Support brackets have evolved over the years from a steel-on-steel application to nylon bushings and eventually to radial bearing surfaces. The steel-on-steel application requires more lubrication than do the other types. Perform a close inspection and adequate lubrication after each move-out to ensure that there is no premature wearing of the axle or bracket surface.
Doors with nylon bushings will need minimal lubrication and will have minimal surface wear. Bearings, the latest trend, offer a smooth operation at all points during door travel. These, too, need periodic lubrication to ensure that the bearings do not dry out and are ready to operate.
Whether a door has a fixed or live shaft, both utilize springs to act as counter-balances for the weight of the curtain. If the springs are encapsulated at the factory within the drum assembly, they are lubricated during assembly. However, if the spring is exposed, a light amount of silicone or oil will resist surface corrosion but probably not enhance the door’s operation. If a door is not working properly, it is either the spring’s tension adjustment, curtain friction in the guides, or the curtain’s point of entry. Inspect the guides, making sure they are not damaged or in a way that impedes the door’s operation.
Proper Alignment And Spacing
Check the alignment of the door curtain and wall support bracket. If a wall fastener works its way loose or fails,
As the door curtain rolls up on the barrel assembly, it is important to provide adequate spacing between the coils of the curtain and guarantee the following: (1) the door curtain wraps in a symmetrical manner, providing a consistent operation of the door; (2) the curtain does not rub itself during operation, scratching or damaging the finished paint surface; and (3) the door curtain does not have any metalto- metal contact inside the guides during operation.
Some manufacturers apply strips of wool pile on the inside of the door curtain with self-adhesive tape that supports the curtain while it rolls up, providing adequate space between the curtain coils. To protect the prefinished paint on the door curtain, inspect these strips after each tenant move-out, repairing or replacing them as required. Other manufacturers provide a polypropylene wear strip stapled to the edge of the curtain to achieve this same spacing affect. Hidden inside the guide, where it also prevents metal-to-metal contact with the guide system, this wear-strip is visible from inside the unit when the door is in the open position. Inspect this edge strip as well for proper alignment and attachment.
Weather-Sealing
There are two types of weather seal attached to the bottom bar of each roll-up door. Both are extruded vinyl, one with a round or “bulb” shape and the other, a single-ply or flat strip. Both act as a deterrent to nature’s elements entering the units under the door curtain. Manufacturers use different extrusion shapes, requiring you to purchase the appropriate replacement seals. Inspect the weather seal for wear, corrosion, or tears. Replace as required by sliding it out of the bottom bar extrusion either above the door stops or through the lock hole. This may require prying open the end of the extrusion.
If you remove the bottom bar above the door stops, be careful to adequately re-tighten the stops when you reinsert the curtain into the guides. These stops should always remain tight and in proper alignment, securely stopping the door at the top of each operation without the fear of it leaving the guides unintentionally. Tighten them to the standards suggested in the installation or service manual for the door model.
Tension Adjustments
The most common question about rollup doors concerns the proper door tension and the use of tension adjustment systems. The proper amount of tension is a personal preference. Many renters close the door but forget to lock it if the door will stay in a fully closed position without the lock being engaged. Also, the primary reason for the roll-up curtain to “balloon” or not roll symmetrically while opening is the lack of adequate tension on the spring.
One popular option has a built-in security measure by having the door rise about 12 inches above the floor when the door is in the unlocked position, which serves as a visual reminder that the door isn’t locked. Roll-up doors are best balanced when they are half-open, and any door placed in this position should be able to stay there without any assistance or propping. The practice of having the door open 12 to 18 inches when the lock is disengaged will ensure that the proper amount of tension is preset on the door at all times.
As for adjustment of the tension of door springs, the introduction of various tension adjusters over the last 10 years has greatly enhanced the ease with which qualified personnel can adjust doors. Spring adjustment should only be attempted by trained personnel, and safety should always be the first concern when attempting to make adjustments to any model of roll-up door.
If you have any questions regarding proper care and maintenance of your facility’s doors, don’t hesitate to call your vendor for guidance.
Chip Cordes is Vice President of U.S. Door & Building Components, a self-storage product manufacturer based in Orlando, Florida.